Cabbage is one of the most cold-resistant vegetable crops. Thanks to frost resistance and unpretentiousness, it is successfully grown even in regions with short and cool summers. We learn about the methods of growing cabbage, depending on the maturity and climatic conditions.
Growing conditions
To get a decent harvest of cabbage, it needs to create favorable conditions. This crop is very responsive to top dressing and watering. Not only the number of kilograms taken from 1 square meter depends on the growing conditions. m, but also the taste of heads of cabbage, their structure and density.
Temperature
Cabbage belongs to cold-resistant crops - it is able to tolerate short-term temperature drops to minus 5 ° C. In autumn, cabbage can withstand more severe frosts without damage to the crop.
The optimum temperature for the development of cabbage is from +15 to +18 degrees. This culture does not like heat, it grows well in cool weather. Temperatures above + 25 ° C negatively affect head formation. Heat contributes to increased accumulation of nitrates.
Humidity
Cabbage loves moisture - the size and taste of heads of cabbage depends on the regularity of watering. But you can not allow excessive moisture - it provokes various diseases. If the soil is moist all the time, the roots gradually die off in the cabbage, the leaves turn crimson and die off - bacteriosis begins.
Illumination
Cabbage does not grow well in shaded areas. To form large and dense heads of cabbage, juicy and with a rich taste, the culture needs a lot of sun. This crop belongs to long day plants - the longer the daylight hours, the faster the development.
The consequences of light deficiency:
- the normal development of the plant is disturbed;
- nitrates are actively accumulated in heads of cabbage;
- lower leaves stop growing and, turning yellow, die prematurely;
- the apical bud, continuing to grow, throws more and more leaves, but the heads of cabbage are not tied.
Predecessors
Cabbage is not recommended to be planted in areas where cabbage of any kind, onions, carrots, peas, turnips, radishes and all cruciferous ones grew before. White cabbage grows best after:
- legumes;
- green manure and annual fodder crops;
- cucumbers
- potatoes;
- beets;
- tomatoes.
To maintain a healthy phytosanitary condition of the soil, cabbage is re-planted on the site no earlier than 5 years later.
Features of planting and care
The vegetation period in early cabbage is 50-110 days, in late and mid-ripening - 100-200 days. Growing seedlings can reduce the residence time of the crop in the open field by 60-70 days.
Seedling method is somewhat more difficult than direct sowing in the soil, but it allows you to quickly get the crop. We learn when it is better to sow seeds, how to grow and transplant seedlings.
Optimum sowing time
Seedlings grown at different times, different growth rates, strength and strength. The better the temperature and light conditions, the faster the seedlings grow.
In order to calculate the time for sowing seeds for seedlings, it is necessary to consider - in what conditions it will grow. Too early sowing requires additional artificial lighting, and if the seedlings are grown in the greenhouse, it will create optimal temperature conditions.
Sowing dates depend on climatic conditions in the growing region, as well as on the variety of cabbage:
- early varieties are sown from February 15-25 to March 5-15;
- average - from about April 10 to 20;
- late - from about 1 to 15 April.
Growing seedlings
The procedure for growing cabbage seedlings:
- Seed preparation. There are several processing options:
- Disinfection. The first option is immersion for 15-20 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The second option is immersion in hot (45-50 ° C) water for half an hour. Having taken the seeds out of hot water, they are immediately placed in cold water for 2-3 minutes.
- Growth promotion. Seeds are soaked, according to the instructions, in a biological activator - for example, in Zircon or Albite.
- Soil preparation. Use a special substrate for growing seedlings or prepare the soil mixture yourself from the following components:
- turf land - 1 part;
- peat - 1 part;
- humus - 1 part;
- wood ash - 10 tbsp. l per 10 kg of the mixture.
- Sowing seeds. Sow seeds in boxes or individual glasses. It is especially convenient to grow seedlings in cassettes with pots of 4.5 × 4.5 × 3 cm. The volume of one pot is 65 cubic meters. see. Seedlings from cassettes better take root and get sick less. Features of sowing seeds:
- In the drawers. They are filled with soil mix by about 5 cm. Small grooves are made - about 1 cm deep. Between adjacent grooves - 3 cm. Furrows are shed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Seeds are planted in furrows with an interval of 2 cm. Sprinkle the seeds with soil and gently compact.
- In separate glasses. 2-3 seeds are sown in each glass - in separate holes. The rest of the agricultural technology is the same as when sowing in boxes.
- Care. Daytime temperature is maintained in the range from +15 to + 18 ° С, nighttime - from +8 to + 10 ° С. Emerging seedlings are watered with water at room temperature. A solution of sodium humate 0.015% is prepared - they are watered shoots 10 days after sowing and 5-6 days before transplanting into open ground. Seedlings are fed with a solution of urea, superphosphate and potassium chloride. For 10 l take respectively 15, 30 and 30 g:
- in the phase of 2-3 leaves - 150 ml per plant;
- 4-5 days before transplantation - 500 ml per plant.
- Hardening. A week before planting, conditions of detention are tightened - they lower the temperature, increase ventilation, reduce the frequency of watering, and carry seedlings to fresh air. First, seedlings are taken out for a short time, gradually the time of "walks" is increased.
In a phase of 6-8 leaves, Silk is sprayed with cabbage - to increase yield, as well as increase the content of sugars and vitamins C.
Soil for seedlings must be deoxidized - with wood ash, lime fluff, dolomite flour. Excessive acidity is the main cause of many cabbage diseases.
Pick
Gardeners usually understand picking as seedling planting - from large containers into separate glasses. But in agrotechnics, picking is an event consisting in transplanting with pinching the root tip by a third or a quarter.
The purpose of the pick is to stimulate branching of the root system. Tomatoes need such a procedure, but pinching the root for cabbage is unacceptable. Therefore, in the case of cabbage, picking is, in fact, the seating of thickened seedlings.
If cabbage is sown in separate glasses of 200-300 ml, picking is not needed. Ready seedlings are immediately planted in open ground.
Dive Features:
- Seedlings are planted 1-2 weeks after sowing seeds.
- Usually dive seedlings begin after the appearance of two true leaves. But cabbage can be planted earlier - as soon as cotyledon leaves are formed and the first true leaf appears. And if the cotyledon leaves are well developed, then you can start picking, without waiting for the appearance of real leaves.
- Only strong seedlings dive - if it is weak, elongated, then most likely it will not take root.
- You can not drag out the pick - overgrown plants are more difficult to take root.
An early picking of cabbage is associated with vulnerability of the root system - the sooner the seedlings are planted, the less likely the plants will catch the disease.
Seating procedure:
- Soil preparation. The same soil in which the seeds were sown is suitable - you do not need to invent anything new. The soil should be loose and with neutral acidity - 6.5-7 pH. It is desirable to disinfect it - calcine in the oven and pour it with Fitosporin. The easiest way is to buy a finished substrate in an agro shop.
- Preparation of containers. Seedlings are planted in separate containers with a capacity of 200-300 ml. It can be cassettes or plastic glasses. The container must have drainage holes. If they are not, a drainage layer is prepared - pebbles or expanded clay is poured onto the bottom. Both drainage techniques can be used simultaneously - but this is not necessary. Table 1 - calculation of the need for cassettes.
- Transplantation into separate containers. Weak seedlings reject, take only strong and healthy specimens.
- 2 hours before the pick, or 6 hours after it, the plants are sprayed with a growth stimulant - they usually use Zircon or Epin.
- 3-4 hours before transplanting, seedlings are watered with warm water - to prevent soil from shedding roots during transplantation.
- In containers filled with soil by 2/3, deepenings are made into which the plant is carefully transplanted - together with a lump of soil. The seedling is buried almost to the cotyledonous leaves, and watered with warm water. It is advisable to pour a nutrient solution - “Fitosporin” or “Cornesila”. After watering, a little more soil is poured on top - so that a crust does not form.
- Further care. Transplanted seedlings are moved to a warmer place, the optimum temperature during this period is from +18 to + 22 ° C. After a few days of landing, you can return to the usual conditions.
Table 1
Grade category | The number of seedlings, thousand pcs / ha | Number of cells | Cell capacity, cubic cm | Duration of cultivation, days | The number of standard seedlings, pcs / sq. m | You need cassettes, pcs. |
Late | 40-50 | 144 | 18 | 35-40 | 864 | 276-347 |
Early | 55-60 | 64 | 65 | 30-35 | 400 | 860-940 |
Experienced gardeners dipped the roots of dive seedlings in a solution of Fitosporin and Kornesila. The first protects plants from fungal diseases, the second stimulates root formation. If “Fitosporin” has not been used, it is recommended to put a “Gliocladin” tablet in each glass - for the prevention of fungal diseases.
Open transplant
Cabbage is planted in a well-lit area. If there is no danger of waterlogging, plants are grown on a flat surface, otherwise narrow beds are made.
Features of cabbage transplantation in open ground:
- Dates. Several factors influence the timing of cabbage transplantation into open ground - climatic conditions, seedling readiness, and grade category. The dependence of the planting dates on the maturity is in table 2.
Usually, early cabbage plantings begin in mid-April, covering the plantings with foil - to protect against frost. Landing is completed in the period of May 5-20. About the same time, mid-ripening varieties are planted, but it is possible later. - The soil. Soil is prepared in the fall. They dig it up, introducing fertilizer under the digging site. Cabbage needs nitrogen, potassium and calcium in large quantities, so in the fall they bring organic matter - manure or compost. The best for cabbage is a combination of organic (40-50 kg per 10 sq. M) and mineral fertilizers (100 g of nitrogen, 60 g of potassium and 90 g of phosphorus). Just before landing:
- If the site has not been dug up since the fall, they dig it up. Under digging make 1-2 g of boron per 1 square. m
- Loosen the soil with a rake.
- Water the soil, and when moisture is absorbed, they form beds.
- Mineral fertilizers are introduced - all phosphorus, 2/3 of potassium and 1/2 of nitrogen. The remaining fertilizers are applied later - when the rows are closed and heads are curled.
- Landing pattern. If you save on area, then the amount of vitamins in heads of cabbage decreases, and the yield decreases. Planting patterns depend on the variety, it is recommended:
- Plant early varieties with an interval of 30-35 cm, and leave 70 cm between rows.
- Mid-season cabbage is planted at intervals of 50-70 cm, between rows - 70-80 cm. The size of heads of cabbage must be taken into account.
- Late-ripening varieties are planted as follows - between plants should be at least 70 cm, and between rows - 80-90 cm. If you reduce the distance, heads of cabbage will be poorly stored.
- Shelter. The temperature under the covering material rises and 2-5 ° C, the ripening of cabbage is accelerated by about 10 days, and the yield increases by 2-5 times. Shelter must be removed in time - so that overheating does not occur, which leads to curvature and elongation of plants.
In the first month of growth in the open ground, greens can be planted between rows of cabbage.
table 2
Variety category by maturity | Duration of vegetation, days | The age of planted seedlings, days |
Early | 70-110 | 45-60 |
Medium | 110-145 | 35-45 |
Later | 145-210 | 30-35 |
If you add too much nitrogen, the quality of the heads worsens - they have more nitrates and less sugars.
Seedlings are best planted in the afternoon or in cloudy weather. The procedure for planting cabbage seedlings in open ground, step by step instructions:
- A day before planting, water the site.
- 2-3 hours before transplanting, water the seedlings - this will minimize the risk of damage to the roots. Instead of water, you can use a solution of heteroauxin (2 tablets are taken on a bucket of water) - to stimulate the formation of roots.
- Immerse the roots of seedlings removed from the cassettes with a lump of earth in an earthenware mash - add the Fitolavin-300 solution (0.3-0.4%) to it, which prevents the black leg and bacteriosis.
- In each well, throw a handful of humus and a spoonful of chalk. Add a suspension of Nemabact - this drug helps to destroy the cabbage fly.
- Deepen the seedling in the hole so that you can sprinkle it with soil to the cotyledon leaves. The apical kidney must be above the ground - do not fall asleep. When immersing the roots in the hole, make sure that they do not bend or pile up - they should be evenly distributed in all directions.
- Pour the planted cabbage. Irrigation rate - 0.5 l per plant. Water so that drops do not fall on the leaves.
- After 1-2 hours, when the moisture is absorbed, sprinkle the moist soil dry - this will prevent evaporation of moisture and the formation of a crust.
- A day after planting, scatter tobacco dust around the plants - at a distance of 5-6 cm. You can also use a mixture of ash and freshly slaked lime taken in equal parts. For 1 square. m will need 20 g of the mixture. These activities scare away the cabbage fly.
How is cabbage propagated?
Seeds taken from the first arrow found may not retain varietal properties. Moreover, they may not even head out. To get quality seeds, you need to grow them in a certain way.
How to get seeds?
Seeds are easier to buy ready-made - they are enough in any seed store. With large-scale cultivation, it makes sense to get seeds on your own.
Features of obtaining seeds:
- Harvested seeds in the second year of life of cabbage.
- For the role of mother liquors, the best heads of cabbage are chosen.
- Before frost, the selected plants are taken out of the ground along with the roots and the ground.
- Before laying the queen cells for storage, they are dusted with wood ash, and the roots are dipped in clay mash. The integumentary leaves are torn off, leaving only 2-3 pieces. Mother liquors are stored at a temperature of +1 to + 2 ° C.
- With the onset of March-April, the stump is cut off, giving it the shape of a cone, and preserving the upper kidney. The length of the petioles on the stump should be within 2-3 cm.
- Ready-made stumps are placed in moistened peat or humus.
- In April-May, stumps are planted in the ground, placing them at an angle, and deepening to the very base of the heads. Between mother liquors of different varieties, a distance of 500-600 m is maintained so that the plants are not dusted.
- Care for mother liquors is usual - watering, loosening, weeding, two fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers.
- When the pods mature and dry, the seeds can be harvested.
How to grow cabbage from a stump?
From stumps you can get not only seed material, but also a new head of cabbage. True, this requires certain conditions:
- Two crops from one plant can be obtained only in regions with a warm climate.
- Having removed the cabbage of early cabbage at the beginning of July, the stumps are not removed from the ground.
- Soon, between the leaves will begin the formation of small heads of cabbage.
- Small heads are thinned out - only two pieces are left on one stump.
- The leaves in the lower part are not torn off from the previous head of cabbage, so that the plants retain moisture better.
- The cabbage, which gives the second crop, is standardly looked after - watered, loosened, fed. Around the middle of September, I collect the second crop. True, heads of cabbage will be smaller than the first - about 0.5-0.7 kg.
Reckless way of growing
Being a hardy crop, cabbage can grow, sown directly into the ground. The advantage of such cultivation is the lack of transplants, which cabbage does not tolerate. As a rule, early and middle varieties are grown in this way.
Features of the seedless method:
- They sow cabbage in late April and early May.
- The soil is carefully dug and fertilized. Prepare the wells in the same way as when planting seedlings. For example, 30x40 cm. Between adjacent plants - 30 cm, between rows - 40 cm. The distance is selected depending on the variety and the ripening time.
- Fertilizers are applied to each well - half a bucket of compost or humus, as well as 0.5 l of ash. 5-6 seeds are placed in one well. If there are doubts about germination, put a dozen seeds. From above, the seeds are covered with a mixture of fertile land, peat and humus.
- Plantings are watered, and so that the seeds germinate as soon as possible, cover with a double layer of non-woven material or a film. Covering material is removed no later than the second true sheet appears. If the film is not removed on time, the cabbage will stretch and its stems will bend.
- About 3 months will pass until the seedlings grow and get stronger, having acquired 3-4 true leaves. All this time, careful care is required - weeding, treatment with prophylactic agents.
- When the seedlings have 4-6 true leaves, they are thinned out, leaving the strongest shoots, in one hole - only one plant.
Cabbage care
Cabbage refers to crops that require moderate but constant attention. To get large and juicy heads of cabbage with good taste, you need regular watering and top dressing. Also, plants need loosening, weeding and preventive treatment.
Loosening
The task of loosening is to prevent the formation of a crust, due to which oxygen does not enter the roots. If the soil is heavy, carry out 4 loosening:
- The first time the soil is loosened immediately, as soon as the seedlings take root. Loosening depth - 4-5 cm.
- The second loosening - a week after the first. Depth - 6-8 cm.
- Then the soil is loosened after each watering - if it is not sprinkled with mulch.
- After closing the leaves, loosening is stopped so as not to injure the heads of cabbage.
Along with loosening, the following agricultural techniques are recommended:
- Hilling - for the formation of additional roots and improved nutrition of heads of cabbage.
- Mulching - to retain moisture and inhibit weed growth.
Watering
Features of watering cabbage:
- The frequency and rate of irrigation depends on the growing season and rainfall.
- Cabbage receives moisture from the upper layers of the soil, therefore it is their moisture content that is maintained.
- The minimum interval between watering young cabbage is 2-3 days. When seedlings take root and heads of cabbage begin to form, the frequency of watering is reduced to one week.
- The best way to water is drip irrigation. Sprinkling is recommended only in the morning, so that the leaves are not burnt by the sun.
- Overmoistening should not be allowed - fungal diseases will develop, roots will rot.
Top dressing
Cabbage needs trace elements. In addition to boron, copper and manganese are very important elements for cabbage - they are introduced in the form of foliar top dressing. Micronutrient spraying increases the yield of early varieties by 20-30%, late - by 10%.
The frequency of top dressing depends on the timing of maturation:
- early cabbage is fed 1-2 times per season;
- middle and late grades - 3-4 times.
At the beginning of the growing season, cabbage needs more nitrogen when a head of cabbage is formed - potassium and phosphorus. Potassium should be 1.5-2 times more than nitrogen, then heads of cabbage will be better stored. The timing of the application and the composition of the dressings are in table 3.
Table 3
Top dressing period | Composition |
Start of heading out | make urea (10-15 g), superphosphate (30 g), potassium chloride (15-20 g) - per 10 l of water (for each plant - 0.5 l) |
2-3 weeks after the first | similarly |
Later varieties are fed two more times with an interval of in 2-3 weeks | increase the dose of potassium chloride to 15 g per 1 square. m |
Late varieties - if the plants are poorly developed, foliar feeding is necessary. For 10 l take 40 g of potassium chloride, 150 g of double superphosphate, 25 g of molybdenum. If the cabbage is yellowish-green, 1% urea is added to the solution.
Protection against diseases and pests
Diseases usually occur amid worsening weather conditions, waterlogging of the soil, violation of the feeding schedule. The most common diseases and pests of cabbage, as well as methods for controlling them, are shown in table 4.
Table 4
Diseases / Pests | Symptoms and signs of damage | How to fight? |
Blackleg | Depletion and decay of the root neck. It can destroy 100% of the crop. | Remove damaged plants. Spray the soil with Bordeaux liquid 1%. Apply biological products - spray Trichodermin or Planriz. |
Kila | Outgrowths form on the roots. Plant development slows down, death occurs. | There are practically no methods of struggle. Damaged plants are removed and the soil is disinfected with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate. |
Powdery mildew | Spots appear on the leaves - yellow, gray, white. On the spots - plaque. Leaves die off. | To prevent the disease, cabbage is watered with cold water. When the disease occurs, spray Peronosporosis, Fitosporin or 1% Bordeaux mixture. |
White rot | Leaves are covered with mucus and black dots. Occurs during the growing season and during storage. | It is important to prevent excessive moisture in the soil and indoors. |
Cabbage fly | Larvae destroy the root system. | Sprinkle planting with mothballs and tobacco dust. |
Cabbage aphid | Small insects, clinging to leaves, drink plant juices. the plant weakens, is deformed, often perishes. | Near cabbage dill, parsley, garlic are planted. Spray with tobacco ash solution. 0.2 kg of ash and tobacco are dissolved in a bucket of water. |
Cruciferous flea | Beetles eat young leaves. | Powdered with tobacco and ash. Planting strongly smelling plants helps. |
Alternative methods for growing cabbage
Gardeners and professional growers are constantly looking for solutions to simplify the cultivation and care of cabbage. It is also important to achieve good yields with limited resources.
Is it possible to grow cabbage without watering?
With a lack of water, problems arise with the cultivation of cabbage - one of the most moisture-loving vegetables. To grow one head of late cabbage, 200 liters of water is spent. And without water to grow this culture does not work. But there are agricultural techniques that retain moisture in the soil, and reduce water consumption.
Measures aimed at reducing irrigation:
- Autumn tillage and the formation of high ridges - with the aim of delaying snow.
- Loosening the soil in early spring - prevents the evaporation of moisture.
- Do not apply deep cultivation. Surface loosening is practiced to prevent crusting.
- Growing in a non-seedling way - powerful roots are formed in plants that better absorb moisture.
- Selection of drought tolerant cabbage varieties.
How to grow cabbage under plastic bottles?
A plastic bottle can serve as an individual shelter. The advantages of this method:
- Shoots under the bottles appear faster.
- Bottles protect young plants from pests.
- Under the plastic container, heat and moisture are retained.
To use plastic bottles for growing cabbage, they cut off the bottom. Covers do not unscrew. After sowing the seeds, the wells are covered with bottles - deepening them into the ground with cut edges. Sprouts are watered through the neck by unscrewing the lid. Unscrewing the lids for the time, shoots ventilate. As soon as the leaves reach the walls of the plastic containers, you can remove the temporary shelter.
Growing under the mulching film
The beds can be mulched not only with bulk materials. Instead, you can use black or transparent film - it depends on the season. It is laid out in cabbage beds a month before the seedlings are planted - so that the soil warms up. According to the fit pattern, holes are cut in the film, making cross-sectional cuts. Standard plant care - watering, top dressing, preventive treatment.
Benefits of using film:
- soil warming;
- death of weeds;
- moisture preservation.
In the spring they use black film, in the summer they lay out transparent and perforated - they put it in the aisles and fix it.
Features of cultivation in the regions of Russia
Experienced vegetable growers can grow cabbage in the most adverse conditions. For harsh conditions, universal varieties are used - Moscow late 15, Kryumon F1, June. But it is best to plant zoned varieties - they are different for each region.
Siberia and the Urals
A feature of these regions is late soil warming. Summer comes late here and quickly passes. Here you need varieties that tolerate changeable cold weather.
Suitable varieties:
- For Siberia - Blizzard, Point, Hope, Final, Siberian 60, Talisman F1. Only the seedling method is used here. Varieties are needed with a short growing season - planted zoned mid-season and mid-late cabbage. Disembarkation is made after May 15. The first time the beds are covered, the harvest is in September.
- For the Urals - Hope, Blizzard, hybrids Atria, Megaton, Aggressor and others. The Urals are characterized by temperature differences, even in May frosts can occur here. Snow falls already in October. They use the seedling method, plantings are covered with spanbond, mulching with a black film is used.
The middle strip of Russia and Moscow region
In a temperate climate, cabbage varieties are cultivated, which are resistant to temperature extremes and humidity. It is important that the crop be harvested before the frost - until the end of September.
When the growing season is less than 90 days, cabbage is planted in the ground under cover - at the end of April. In the central region, it is recommended to plant Moscow late cabbage, as well as varieties Solo, Podarok, Zarya and others.
South Region
In the south of Russia, cabbage can be grown, both seedlings and direct sowing of seeds in the ground. Here, in the conditions of a long, early and warm summer, preference is given to early ripening varieties.
Popular varieties of cabbage for the southern region are the Quartet, Milan F1, Kubanochka and others.
Ripening dates and storage of the crop
Early and middle cabbage begin to be cut in July-August. A second crop can be grown from stumps, so you should not rush with their removal. Late cabbage ripens in September-October. Heads cut off when they gain elasticity.
Harvesting late cabbage is preferably carried out in cool weather. Gardeners noticed that heads headed at temperatures from +3 to +8 ° C have better keeping quality.
How to clean and store late cabbage:
- Heads of cabbage pull together with stitches.
- In order for the cabbage leaves to fade, they leave it to lie down right on the field for several days.
- When the heads of cabbage settle down, the pokers are cut off - they leave 2-3 cm. The integumentary leaves do not break off. Heads with poker can endure frosts to minus 7 ° C, and without poker spoils at such temperatures. Therefore, it is not worth trimming cabbage during frosts - you need to wait for warming.
- Cropped heads of cabbage sort. The more loose are sent for processing - salt, fermented. Thick cabbages are stored in the basement.
- They put cabbage on a concrete floor - only on wooden shelves or in boxes. You can also hang it from the ceiling - if the pokers are not cut off. The optimum temperature for storing cabbage is from -1 ° C to + 5 ° C.
Mistakes when growing cabbage
The biggest problem with growing cabbage is poor heading out. Plants stretch up, leaves grow, but no forks. The reasons for this condition:
- Seeds are sown late. Seeds must be sown in accordance with the time frame.
- Landing was thickened. You can not violate the landing scheme, saving space.
- Incorrect watering - too frequent or vice versa insufficient. You can apply a sprinkler system by controlling soil moisture.
- Overdose of nitrogen fertilizers. When heads are formed, nitrogen fertilizers cannot be applied at all, only potassium and phosphorus are added.
Growing cabbage requires responsibility from the gardener - it is worth neglecting at least one factor, and you should not see quality heads of cabbage. Watering, preventative treatment of top dressing actively affect the size, density, juiciness, taste and keeping quality of cabbage. By following all agrotechnical requirements, you will be able to get high yields of cabbage of different ripening dates.
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