Among the varieties with light fruits, Gribovsky zucchini is one of the most popular in Russia and the CIS countries. The highly branched plant bears fruit well in many regions, without requiring special growing conditions and care. More details on its characteristics and the method of cultivation can be found below.
Zucchini Gribovsky
Zucchini Gribovsky high-yielding variety
Gribovskiy zucchini has tasty and juicy pulp
Description of the variety
Zucchini Gribovsky 37 was bred in 1943 from a sample of Greek foreign origin. He immediately gained great popularity and to this day is grown in many cities of the former USSR. Many gardeners will be interested in its characteristics:
Parameter | Description |
Ripening period | The variety is grown as an annual crop and has a mid-early ripening period - on average 45-60 days pass from planting seeds in the ground to collecting the first fruits. On a plant, fruits are formed within 35-40 days. |
Plant features | The form of the plant is bushy with a large number of shoots. The bushes themselves are well developed and formed from strong spreading branches. The main stem is large and spreads along the ground. Large spotted leaves of a bright green color and pentagonal shape appear on the bushes. They keep on long, powerful petioles. The whole plant is covered with pubescence in the form of thorns. Bright yellow bell-shaped flowers appear on it. The variety is dioecious, therefore there are male and female flowers. Unlike female flowers, male flowers are devoid of thickening on the pedicel. Pollination occurs with the help of insects. |
Features of fruits | The fruits of the squash Gribovsky can be described in several main parameters:
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Disease resistance | The variety is not afraid of a number of diseases that pose a danger to other members of the Pumpkin family. These include bacteriosis, fruit rot, and powdery mildew. In this regard, the culture does not need to be treated with chemicals. |
Yield | Gribovsky zucchini belongs to high-yielding varieties - subject to competent agricultural technology, it allows from 1 sq. m of the garden to collect from 4 to 8 kg of fruits. |
Timing and methods of landing
There are two ways to grow a Gribovsky zucchini on your personal plot:
- Through direct seeding into the ground... A good choice for regions with a warm and stable climate. It is advisable to sow seeds in the ground in late May or early June, when the threat of severe frosts has passed. In the south, sowing work can be carried out in early May, but always under a film cover.
- Rassadny... In the central and northern regions, it is better to cultivate the vegetable through seedlings. To get an early harvest of fruits, it is worth sowing seeds in pots from the last decade of April to mid-May. If you plan to start up the fruits for long-term storage and preparation of blanks for the winter, sowing work is best carried out in the last decade of May. After about a month, seedlings in the phase of 2-4 true leaves can be transplanted to a permanent place.
Site selection and preparation of the garden
The culture is photophilous, so it must be grown in a sunny and draft-free place. The best option is the southern and southwestern slopes. As for the soil, it should be nutritious, sandy loam or medium loamy with neutral acidity.
It is undesirable to grow zucchini on heavy soils, near which groundwater passes.
When choosing a site, it is equally important to take into account the rules of crop rotation. Zucchini should not be planted in a place where it was previously grown:
- cucumbers;
- squash;
- watermelons;
- other members of the Pumpkin family.
Good predecessors are:
- green manure crops;
- onion;
- cabbage;
- carrot;
- peas.
In order for the zucchini to be protected from pests in the future, it should be planted near such crops:
- garlic;
- Luke;
- marigolds;
- basil;
- peppermint.
Having identified a suitable site, you can start preparing it. It is advisable to dig the garden bed on a shovel bayonet in the fall, add organic fertilizers (humus, compost, peat, sand) and cover it with dark material for quick heating. If you want to lower the acidity of the soil, you need to add lime to it.
In the autumn preparation, the garden bed can be watered with a solution of the biological fungicide Fitosporin-M (1 tbsp. L. Powder per bucket of water for processing 1 sq. M of the garden). Such a remedy will destroy fungal and bacterial pathogens.
Tillage can also be done before sowing. To do this, it must be well dug up, and then fertilized with mineral and organic substances.
Seed treatment
For any method of planting, Gribovsky's seeds must be subjected to pre-sowing treatment, which involves the following actions:
- Disinfect the seed. To do this, soak it for 30 minutes in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate. Cull hollow specimens that have floated to the surface of the water - they will not germinate. Rinse the remaining seeds with clean water to remove germs from the surface.
- Soak the seeds for 12 hours in 1 hour in a growth stimulator - Zircon, Heteroauxin or Epin.
- Soak a cloth bag in water, and then put the seeds in it. Transfer the bag to a saucer and keep in a warm place for 72 hours. Make sure that the fabric does not dry out.
The germinated seed can be sown outdoors or for seedlings.
Planting through seedlings
This method involves growing strong seedlings, which can be conditionally divided into several stages:
- Sowing seeds... Produced in separate containers up to 100 ml to prevent damage to young roots. For these purposes, it is best to use plastic cups, ceramic pots, mini greenhouses, or peat pots. They need to be filled with ready-made soil mixture with fertile and loose soil. A little superphosphate or wood ash can be added to the substrate. The seeds that have hatched must be planted in this soil, deepening by 4-5 cm.
- Creating an optimal microclimate... After sowing, the soil must be moistened and covered with foil or glass. When the first shoots appear, the shelter can be removed. It is better to keep the seedlings on the windowsill on the south side, but it must be shaded from direct sunlight.
- Top dressing... It is enough to feed the seedlings twice, adhering to the following scheme:
- with the appearance of the first shoots, pour a solution of 0.5 tbsp. superphosphate and the same amount of urea per 1 liter of water;
- 10-14 days after the first feeding, water the seedlings with a solution of wood ash or nitrophoska.
- Watering... In order to prevent the appearance of a crust on the ground, water the seedlings with settled water at room temperature 2 times a week. You should not overdo it with watering, since the Gribovsky zucchini is a drought-resistant plant.
- Hardening... It is carried out a week before transplanting seedlings outdoors to prepare them for new growing conditions. On the first day, the young should be taken out into the open air for 2-3 hours, and on the following days - added to the available time for 2 hours.
After the frost has passed, seedlings with several true leaves can be transplanted into open ground. The planting pattern is 70x70 cm. The seedlings must first be carefully removed from the container so as not to disturb the earthen lump and not injure the roots, and then plant them in the prepared holes, deepening to the cotyledon leaves.
To extend the fruiting period of the zucchini, you can use the conveyor method - planting seedlings several times per season with an interval of 7 days.
Sowing seeds in open ground
The seeds that have hatched can be sown in open ground according to the 60x60 cm scheme. Do not plant too densely, otherwise in the future the bushes will interfere with each other and will not be able to develop in full force. The optimum density is 3 seedlings per 1 sq. m beds.
When sowing, each hole must be moistened, if desired, add a handful of humus and ash, and then throw 2-3 grains into it and sprinkle with earth. Zucchini loves warmth, so before the first shoots appear, planting should be kept under a film cover.
If several seeds germinate in any hole, weak shoots must be removed, leaving one strong specimen.
Gribovsky zucchini care
This variety is not particularly whimsical, but requires the timely implementation of a number of agrotechnical measures. It includes:
- Soil treatment... After the appearance of the first shoots or 7 days after planting the seedlings in the ground, the first loosening can be carried out. It should be light and shallow so as not to damage the plant's root system. A few hours after loosening, it is necessary to carry out weeding - remove all weeds in order to preserve nutrients for the vegetable marrow in the soil and prevent the development of diseases. When the seedlings get stronger, it is worth hilling, which will contribute to the formation of additional shoots.
- Watering... Several times a week, early in the morning or in the evening, planting should be moistened with warm, settled water in order to prevent the earth from drying out. During flowering and fruit setting, the frequency of watering can be increased, but excess moisture must not be allowed - this can lead to root rot.
In addition, in damp earth, the top of the fruit will begin to rot. In this case, the affected area must be cut to fresh pulp with a sharp knife, and the cut must be held over an open fire. After such manipulations, the cut will harden and cover with a crust, and the fruit will continue to grow.
- Top dressing... If the zucchini is cultivated on depleted soil, then it needs to be fed with organic matter and mineral fertilizers. During the period of growth and development, the plant can be fed twice according to the following scheme:
- water the monthly planting with a solution of 40 g of superphosphate, 20 g of ammonium nitrate and 20 g of potassium salts per bucket of water (this composition is enough for watering 10 plants);
- 7-10 days after the first feeding, apply an organic fertilizer diluted in water under the root - bird droppings (1:15) or mullein (1:10).
- Pollination... Carried out by bees and other insects. To attract them, the bushes can be regularly sprayed with sugar syrup. An alternative option is to apply water to the female buds, to which first add pollen from male flowers.
- Bush formation... Gribovsky zucchini is classified as a highly branched plant, so its lashes should be pinched to the desired length. In addition, you need to regularly remove up to 3 lower large leaves. They suck out a lot of nutritious juices from the plant and at the same time shade the fruits.
- Pest control... The planting must be protected from such insects:
- Spider mite... It attacks zucchini in the second half of June, settling on the underside of leaves and sucking juices out of them. Leads to dropping of ovaries, leaves and flowers. Mites can be fought by spraying the plant with hot pepper infusion with wood ash.
- Sprout fly... With poor cultivation of the beds, it winters at night in the soil, and in May it wakes up and attacks the zucchini. To fight the fly, Fufanon or Karbofos must be added to the ground in early spring.
- Melon aphid... In the spring it settles on weeds and multiplies, and then attacks crops, including zucchini. It can be seen on the back of the tops and young shoots. Leads to deformation of leaves and their fall, which inhibits plant growth. Carbofos, powdered sulfur, infusion of tobacco or yarrow will help from aphids.
Harvesting and storage
On average, harvesting can be done every 2-3 days already in the middle of summer. The fruits must be cut from the bushes with a sharp knife along with the stalk. The exact timing of their collection depends on the goals of the gardener:
- Eat zucchini in the coming days... During the fruiting period, you need to remove young fruits with a light and soft skin, which will also stimulate the formation of new ovaries. As a rule, it takes 8-12 days from the formation of ovaries to the outgrowth of the fruit. In order to have time to collect young zucchini, plantings need to be inspected every 3-4 days.
- Lay in winter storage... If the zucchini is grown for long-term storage, the fruits need to be picked only when the varietal maximum size is reached. The skin of such vegetables is coarser, so they can be stored until February-March. Cut fruits without visible damage must be dried in the sun, wiped with a dry cloth (do not wash!) And sent to storage in the basement, after putting them in boxes. To prevent the zucchini from touching each other, you need to put straw or sawdust between them.
Zucchini can be stored after freezing. To do this, they must be thoroughly washed, peeled and seeds removed, and then cut into small cubes, packaged in bags and put into the freezer.
Even if the vegetable is put into storage, it should not be allowed to over-ripen, because because of this it will be covered with a coarse bark of a yellowish or brown hue, and will also lose its taste - it will pull more seeds inside than pulp.
Pros and cons
The advantages of the Gribovsky variety include the following qualities:
- is resistant to disease;
- tolerates sudden changes in temperature;
- has high taste;
- refers to high-yielding plants;
- suitable for long-term storage and transportation to distant plants, so it can be grown for the purpose of further sale.
As a disadvantage of the variety, it can only be noted that its bushes are vigorous. Because of this, a large area in the garden will have to be allocated for the vegetable.
Variety reviews
Larisa Pavlovna, 56 years old. Along with the zucchini-zucchini, I also grow the Gribovskiy 37 variety. I like its germination and yield, and the young fruits are very tasty and juicy. If my family does not have time to eat all the fruits, then I prepare winter preparations from them - caviar or marinades. It turns out very tasty.
Ivan Sergeevich, 49 years old. For me, the Gribovsky zucchini is a classic. It was also raised by my parents. The fruit is white in color and has a pleasant firmness and does not have any noticeable fiber. The most delicious zucchini when fried! I grow some of the fruits to a coarse crust and put them in the cellar for storage. They do not lose their qualities until spring.
Olga Syshchuk, 39 years old. At the dacha I grow zucchini Gribovsky 37. I choose this variety for its unpretentiousness, good germination and yield. But keep in mind that the bushes are very branchy, so they will take up a lot of space. It's not a problem for me. Zucchini can be harvested 45-50 days after the first shoots appear. The skin is not hard, and the flesh is very tender and juicy. I recommend to everyone.
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Zucchini Gribovsky 37 is cultivated on their backyard plots by both novice gardeners and experienced gardeners. The variety is valued for its unpretentiousness, resistance to diseases and low temperatures, as well as good germination and yield. Most of the fruit can be harvested at a young age for human consumption, while the remainder can be harvested when ripe for storage.