The cultivation of watermelons in the southern regions will surprise no one. But getting a crop of melons in a cold climate is possible only in greenhouse conditions. What needs to be done and what agricultural techniques to carry out in order to grow a watermelon in a greenhouse, we will tell later in the article.
Carrying out pre-landing activities
To implement plans for obtaining a harvest of watermelons in a greenhouse, it is worthwhile to prepare responsibly. The possibility of the growing process itself depends on the choice of the greenhouse, its equipment and the preparedness of the soil in it.
Greenhouse selection
The size of the shelter and the design option depends on the gardener. It is better to give preference to polycarbonate structures, since they are easy to assemble and operate, they can withstand weather disasters. Their high cost pays off quickly.
Film greenhouses, although they are an order of magnitude cheaper, are suitable for testing the method of obtaining a harvest of watermelons, but on a serious scale they will require additional investment and effort.
Since watermelon is a crop that requires an increased volume of space, the size of the greenhouse for growing 10 plant roots should be at least 10 square meters. m. Consider the height from 2 m in order to provide convenience for agricultural technology and not limit the growth of the watermelon. Place trellises and garters indoors.
When the greenhouse is installed, check it for gaps in the frame or in the joint of polycarbonate sheets. If you find any, eliminate them. This will save the seedlings from drafts and inevitable death.
To avoid the occurrence of fungal diseases, treat the interior with a solution of copper sulfate, diluting it in water in a ratio of 1: 100, or Bordeaux liquid.
Install additional sources of heat and light. You can lay heating pipes under the beds so that the soil also has the opportunity to warm up.
Soil preparation
The quality of the soil is of great importance for the cultivation of watermelons. There are several options to prepare the soil:
- Remove 20 cm thick soil from the greenhouse. In its place, lay a layer of straw and humus, and sprinkle with nitrate fertilizers on top. Water well so that the straw is saturated with water, and the top dressing dissolves. Fill the removed soil from above and cover with a dark film. Planting work on this soil is recommended after 7-10 days.
- Dig up the soil by introducing organic matter into it. Humus is suitable if the planting of watermelons is planned in the near future, or manure, if you will plant seedlings in 2-3 months.
- To form artificial beds with a height of at least 30 cm.To do this, make fences from a board and pour inside a mixture of garden soil and river sand (10 kg per 1 sq. M), adding nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers into it (10 g per 1 sq. . m).
Note that watermelons prefer soils with a pH in the 6-7 range. If the soil has high acidity, it is recommended to add limestone, chalk, wood ash at the rate of 300-700 g per 1 sq. m of land. With alkaline soils, they need to be acidified with humus - 5-7 kg per sq. m or manure - 2-3 kg per sq. m.
Organic matter also increases the soil's ability to pass air and water inside, making the soil looser and lighter. For the same purpose, sand is added.
Advantages and disadvantages of growing watermelons in a greenhouse
The technology for growing watermelons in a greenhouse has its positive and negative components.
The advantages of this method include:
- Lack of influence of external climate on plants. Regardless of the temperature outside the shelter, the microclimate in the greenhouse has its own stable indicators. Do not be afraid of any manifestations of the weather and worry about their negative reflection on the melon culture.
- Mechanical damage to plants and fruits is practically reduced to zero. In a closed greenhouse, the wind does not turn the watermelon vines, and animals and other pests have no access to the plant.
- The quality of the watermelon pulp. The constancy of the microclimate makes it possible for watermelons to ripen and gain sweetness, so their pulp is juicy and sweet.
The only drawback of growing watermelons in a greenhouse is the senselessness of this process in the southern regions, where plants and without shelter have enough heat and other weather and climatic conditions for ripening. The profitability of such a process can become negative.
Choosing a watermelon variety for growing in a greenhouse
For growing in shelters, it is advisable to choose varieties and hybrids with a short ripening period. We invite you to get acquainted with some of the most popular watermelon varieties suitable for cultivation in mid-latitudes:
- Siberian... A variety specially bred for cultivation in the regions of Siberia. The fruits are sweet, medium in size, weighing up to 5 kg. The crust is not thick, the flesh is rich scarlet, contains a lot of sugar. The variety is not afraid of fluctuations in air temperatures, gives high-quality ovaries even at low temperatures.
- Crimson... An early ripening variety, ripening is observed at 70-75 days. The peel is matte with green stripes of dark and light green color. The pulp is juicy, red. Fruit weight can range from 5 to 12 kg. Medium resistant to anthracnose.
- Fire... Early ripening variety. The growing season is 70 to 80 days. The mass of a spherical small fruit reaches 2.5 kg. The juicy, sweet heart of a fiery color is covered with a thin, dark skin of a dark green hue with almost no pattern. The seeds are not large. The variety is unpretentious in cultivation, but it is not stored for long. It is characterized by an average degree of resistance to powdery mildew and anthracnose.
- Sugar... Ultra early variety. Fruits appear on the 65-75 day. The rind is thin, green with a barely noticeable pattern. The pulp is rich red, representing the appearance of a mass of large grains, sweet, juicy. Fruit weight is about 3 kg, rarely grow up to 5 kg. The variety is unpretentious, cold-resistant, transportation and storage is possible.
- Florida... Mid-season hybrid with a growing season of up to 100 days. The fruits are elongated. The pulp is juicy, aromatic. The crust is hard, colored with blurred stripes. Suitable for transportation, stored for up to 3.5 months.
watermelon grade "Siberian"
watermelon grade "Crimson"
watermelon variety "Ogonyok"
watermelon grade "Sugar"
watermelon variety "Florida"
Seedling preparation
To obtain good yields, you cannot do without proper seed preparation and growing healthy seedlings from them.
Sowing seeds
Before sowing seeds, it is recommended to prepare them. For this:
- Dissolve 1 tsp in 100 g of running water. table salt. Dip the seeds into the liquid. Remove all seeds remaining on the surface - there will be no use from this seed material, they are empty. Rinse the remaining seeds with clean water.
- Prepare a slightly pink manganese solution and soak the seeds in it for 20-30 minutes. This procedure will disinfect the seed material and protect against the development of fungal diseases.
- Lay cotton fabric in a saucer. Moisten it well with warm water and spread the watermelon seeds in an even layer over it. Cover the top with the same damp piece of cloth or plastic bag. Remove to a warm place for swelling and germination. Keep the fabric always damp, spray it with water.
Soaking the seeds in a growth promoter before sowing will speed up the appearance of the first shoots.
When the seed germinates, you can start planting it in separate containers. For this, it is recommended to use peat glasses, but any other container of suitable size will do. Fill the glasses with prepared soil and place the seeds in it to a depth of 3-4 cm, placing them horizontally in the ground. Place the container in a warm place with an air temperature of at least 25 ° C.
Growing seedlings
When the first leaves appear, create the necessary conditions for the seedlings so that they are healthy and strong:
- Use additional lighting phyto or fluorescent lamps so that the total daylight hours for the plant is at least 12-14 hours a day.
- Water the plant so that moisture does not get on the leaves.
- As the seedlings grow, the distance between the pots should be increased so that the plants do not shade each other.
- Rotate the containers periodically so that the plants do not stretch to one side, but grow even.
- Feed the seedlings every 10-14 days. To do this, dilute 250 g of wood ash in 10 liters of water, and use a watering solution. Nitrogen fertilizers give a good effect. For example, 20 g of urea per bucket of water.
Planting watermelon seedlings in a greenhouse: a step by step scheme
When 3-4 main leaves are formed on the plants, you can proceed to transplanting it into the greenhouse:
- Divide the area for planting in beds. With a single-line planting, it is enough to make a ditch 10-12 cm deep, and distribute the seedlings in it at a distance of 70 cm from each other.
- For two-line planting, it is preferable to make holes 30 × 30 cm in size and 10 cm deep, placing them 50 cm apart.
- Water the track or holes well.
- Dip a peat pot with seedlings in it and sprinkle with earth, lightly tamping. It is allowed to place 2 seedlings in the hole along the edges, planting them at an angle in opposite directions from each other.
- If the seedlings were grown in reusable containers, then water them well one day before planting, so that when the seedlings are removed, the earthen ball does not crumble and damage the root system of the seedling.
- The seedling substrate after planting should protrude slightly above the soil surface. This will reduce the likelihood of blackening and rot of the seedling legs.
In the video presented, you can see the process of planting watermelon seedlings in a greenhouse:
Agricultural technology of watermelons in the greenhouse
Agrotechnical measures for the care of watermelons are not difficult, but they should not be neglected.
Temperature and humidity conditions
The optimum temperature for the growth and development of watermelons is 24-26 degrees. It is very important not to allow its sharp fluctuations. In cold climates the use of heating in the greenhouse is mandatory.
Condensation in the greenhouse and excessive humidity in the air lead to the spread of diseases. Ventilate the area daily. On hot days, you can leave the greenhouse open all day.
Watering
Properly organized watering is essential for plant growth and development. With a lack of moisture, the leaves and creepers of watermelons wither. It is enough to carry out it 1-2 times a week, but abundantly. Or water the beds in moderation every other day. Do not overdo it with the amount of moisture when watering, otherwise the fruits will begin to crack. Keep in mind that watermelon is a drought tolerant crop.
When ripe watermelons, sharply reduce the number of watering. This will allow the berries to grow fragrant and sweet.
Water at room temperature is considered optimal for moistening the beds. When watering, make sure that it does not fall on the green parts of the plant, but is directed towards the root system. As the soil dries up after watering, be sure not to form a dry crust on the surface of the soil. Loosen the soil in time.
Forming watermelons
An important step on the way to harvest is the formation of watermelon bushes. 10-15 days after planting seedlings in the greenhouse, after passing through adaptation to new conditions, it must be tied up, indicating the growth reference point and preparing the bush for further measures.
Empty lateral vines from inflorescences are immediately removed. Pinch the shoots with ovaries, leaving 3-4 leaves above the inflorescence. As the fruits grow to the size of a walnut, leave 3-4 pieces of them on one plant, and cut off the rest. If you do not remove the excess, then the watermelons will grow small and may not ripen due to nutritional deficiencies.
Diseases and pests
Most often, watermelons are affected by fungal infections - anthracnose, powdery mildew, and also get sick with black, white, gray rot. Various spots appear on the leaves and vines, and the plant itself begins to wither. If such a situation is left unattended, the culture can die.
When the first signs of disease are found, remove the damaged leaves, and treat the healthy part of the plant with fungicidal solutions. The drugs are purchased in specialized stores and diluted according to the instructions.
Preventive measures, such as cultivating the land and seeds, killing weeds and loosening the soil, watering moderately, ventilating and maintaining the optimum air temperature, reduce the chances of watermelon infection. If the disease spreads, then the main measure of control will be the destruction of the culture, followed by burning. The greenhouse and soil are then sanitized.
The main pest of watermelon plantations is the melon aphid, the larvae of which feed on the sap of the plant, thereby depriving it of food. Watermelons wither and dry up. To combat it, plants are sprayed with an ash solution with the addition of laundry soap. When processing, keep in mind that the main accumulation of insects is concentrated on the underside of the leaf plate.
Intavir is a good drug aimed at fighting aphids. Dissolve 2-3 tablets in a bucket of water and spray the culture.
Fertilizers
The main feeding of plants in the shelter is carried out 3 times:
- When the lashes grow up to 25 cm in length, on the 30th day after determining the seedlings in the greenhouse.
- Before flowering.
- When the first ovaries appear on the lashes.
In case of insufficient fertilization during soil preparation, additional nutrition may be required for the watermelons. In this case, alternate the types of dressings, taking into account the total dose of application.
Fertilization of the soil can be carried out with various dressings:
- Ammonium nitrate. Dissolve 15-20 g of granules in 10 liters of water. Liquid consumption is approximately 1.5-2 liters per plant.
- Chicken droppings. Dissolve 800 g of organic matter in a bucket of water. Let it brew for a day in a warm place, stirring occasionally. Fertilizer consumption - 500 ml per bush.
- Ash infusion. Use 700 g of ash in a bucket of water, infusing the solution for 12-14 hours. Top dressing consumption - 0.5 l for each plant.
- Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Apply superphosphate 40-50 g per bucket of water and potassium chloride 25-30 g per 10 liters of water.
- Use special feeding for melons, for example, "Vegetable giant", according to the instructions.
Pollination
Pollination is only possible with insects if the greenhouse is kept open throughout the day. If this is not possible, then you need to pollinate the flowers yourself. To do this, pick a male flower and transfer its pollen to female inflorescences. This manipulation can be done with a cotton swab.
It is desirable to carry out the procedure in the morning at 10-11 o'clock, and repeat as necessary.
Tying watermelons
Tying watermelons is a measure to prevent damage to vines due to the weight of the fruit. When the watermelons reach the size of a large apple, they are identified in nets and tied at the required level to trellises or other fasteners. Another option for preserving the fruit is the construction of special fruit stands. Watermelons are on them constantly, until harvest.
There are many methods of tying and placing watermelons in a greenhouse. Each gardener performs work from the material at hand, using imagination and skills. They use old stockings, mesh bags, wooden shelves and fabric swings, and much more.
Harvesting
You can understand that the time has come for harvesting from several points:
- the skin of the watermelon becomes smooth and elastic;
- the stripes of the pattern become yellowish;
- when tapping on the fruit, a ringing sound is emitted;
- the tail of the watermelon becomes thinner and dries up.
Stop watering when deciding to harvest. After 3-4 for you can start cutting, leaving a small stalk. Dried fruits last much longer than moist watermelons.
You can save the fruits in a cardboard box, sprinkling them with sand and ash, or in a suspended state. It is important that the watermelons do not touch each other. For storage, choose a basement or another dark, cool room without fluctuations in air temperature.
Growing juicy sweet watermelons in a small greenhouse area is within the power of any gardener. It is important to observe agrotechnical measures for the care of the crop and special measures to preserve the integrity of fruits and plants. If these conditions are met, the yield from each watermelon seed can reach from 10 to 20 kg!